The POLY HUMPY is an ATTRACTOR pattern, good for searching for trout, and easier to tie, lighter to cast than the hair wing version. Learn to tie the original, and many other attractor patterns, and how to fish them, HERE
Hook: a standard dry or nymph hook, or a 2XL like a TME 2312: this is a DR 320 #12; TMC 100 is equivalent
Thread: UTC70; Danville 6/0 (70D) color of choice
Wing, Tail & Shell: one hank of dun poly material
Hackle: furnce, brown, dun, grizzly, or mixed; this is cree
Body: dubbing color and type of choice; this is seal; any dry fly dubbing is fine
Flatten the barb. Start thread behind eye, make 3-4 BA wraps; wax thread
TIP: mount hook firmly in vise jaws so shank is parallel to tying table
Make BA thread wraps to about the middle of the shank, then FA wraps to the length of the eye behind the eye. (where start thread ended)
Select rooster feather from cape of saddle, sized to the hook - fibers should flare about 1-1/2X the hook gap; prepare feather, orient with tip forward, top away. Wax thread; tie in hackle with tight BA wraps of thread, then continue making BA wraps to position shown here: thread hangs over where the barb was.
Select a hank of poly material; orient with short section behind shank, long end over eye, and tie in on top of shank to make tail
NOTE: tail is longer than it will be: poly is easy to trim, so tie in a bit long then trim at end to form fly proportions
Without rolling the material around the shank, make close tight FS wraps to secure poly, as shown, stopping at about the middle of the shank, as here.
Pull poly back over top of shank, make close tight BS wraps of waxed thread to secure
Select dubbing, create dubbing rope, and dub body as thin or full as you like to cover the poly that's on the shank - in other words, to about the middle of the shank, as shown; dam up dubbing with 2FA, 2BA, 2FA, 2BA wraps of waxed thread; let thread hang adjacent to the front of dubbed body, as shown.
Pull poly over back of dubbing to create shell; tie down with FA wraps of waxed thread until thread hangs half-way between front of body and back of eye, as shown here.
I chose to make wing fuller by doubling the poly by create a loop of poly to desired wing length; now make BA wraps of waxed thread to the body; clip away excess. DO NOT cut thread when trimming away excess poly.
NOTE: a single hank of wing, easier to tie, will be visible and fish great, but I prefer the fullness option when tying time permits.
Stand wing upright by pulling back with LH, then make tigth wraps to dam, up as with dubbing
Move thread back so it is adjacent to the body
Make BA wraps of hackle to rge base of the front of the wing, then under the shank and tight to the base of the back of wing, followed by BA wraps to the body, as shown
With the lovely genetic hackle availavle, there is no reason to scrimp. An attractor dry can have as much hackile density as it deserves, proportional to the hook size.
Now make a wrap of thread adjacent to the body and over the feather stem, then FS wraps throught the hackle. NOTE: weave the thread through the fibers so they are not captured flat. I make about 5 turns, 2 behind, then 2 in front of wing - spiral wraps so they are separated - then 1 finish wrap in front of hackle collar.
Whip finish with waxed thread; trim thread. Tie more.
OPTIONS: Any attractor dry tied with hair tail and wings can be tied with poly: so any Wulff or trude pattern.